A Lull in the Action: The Most Beautiful View (and legs) in the World!

Today we took a tour of Valparaiso. Valparaiso is much larger than Vina del Mar, its sister "city" on the other side of the bay. There are many government buildings and schools and plazas near the ocean, but the most famous (and beautiful) features of Valparaiso are its 45 hills, or cerros, that line its coast. The hills of Valparaiso stretch as far as the eye can see, and each hill is covered with thousands of tiny brightly colored houses. From a distance it is a beautiful sight, but up close it is even better.
We began our tour at sea level, passing the port (largest port in Chile), the naval academy, and the beautiful plazas. We saw the house of the commander and chief of the Chilean Navy (the most gorgeous blue mansion I have ever seen), and then took an ascensor (outdoor elevator, like a gondola) up one of the hills, called Cerro Alegre (translates to happy hill). From the top, we had the most beautiful view of the bay, Valparaiso below us and Vina del Mar in the distance. Looking out by the port and the naval academy, we were even able to see a submarine descending into the ocean!
At the top of the hill (which happened to be known as the "hill of immigrants" - where settlers of every nation made their homes and lived together in peace) there were hundreds and thousands of the most intricately designed, unique, brightly colored houses I have ever seen. Each was different and distinct from the next, yet they all fit together to make one giant puzzle. At the top there was almost no car traffic, and most of the roads were only accessible by foot. Houses were squeezed into every possible nook and cranny, and around each corner there was something exquisite to look at.
We wandered this area for 3 hours, and never saw the same thing twice! Most every house had many balconies and large front windows facing the ocean. Our guide said that Valparaiso's hills are usually referred to as the labyrinth, because unless you live on the hills it is impossible to know your way around. There is no order to the streets and the houses, since they were built to accommodate the hill.
The things I got to see today are almost indescribable, they are so beautiful. I didn't think it was possible for places like this to exist in the world, and after today I have a whole new level of respect and love for the city of Valparaiso. At the top of these hills, it almost feels like time stops, because it is easy to get lost in the architecture, the colors, and the view of the ocean.
The city of Valparaiso is also known for its art. There are murals on almost every building, as well as a fair amount of graffiti. However, graffiti is a way of life here, and there is so much all over the place that it too has become a form of art. Every building has at least one picture, design, or message painted on it, making each street, each corner, each building even more unique. However the steep landscape made for a tiring tour! Our tour guide told us that it is a common for Chileans to talk about women from Valparaiso having the best legs in the world, since they have to climb up and down the hills every day, and I can see now how this can be true!
After our walk we ate lunch at a local restaurant, and then headed back up the hill to the second home of Pablo Neruda (the first we saw in Santiago). Pablo Neruda fell in love with Valparaiso for the same reasons as most of us did: the views and the art. His second house has been turned into a workshop, an art gallery, and a museum, and the views from every window in his house are some of the best in the whole city.
Tomorrow we travel 2 hours from Valparaiso to see La Isla Negra, the third, final, and most beautiful and well-known house of Pablo Neruda. (Pablo Neruda is the pride and joy of all Chileans - especially my professor who is taking us - so us students joke that we have seen everything we could possibly see in Chile about Pablo Neruda in 1 week - which is true!) After our tour of La Isla Negra (The Black Island) we are going to Casablanca, a vineyard for a wine tour and tasting. Chilean wine is pretty delicious, so we are all excited! Aside from the wine, there are other famous types of Chilean drinks, including Kunstmann Miel (Hhoney flavored beer), and my professors favorite, Pisco Sours. We have also been doing some shopping recently, and have learned that alpaca wool is a very famous Chilean product, in addition to copper and Lapis stones.
Tonight I went for another run along the beach with Kelly, and then relaxed with my family at home. I met my sister Sary's pololo (the Chilean word for boyfriend - also a joke because pololo's second meaning is a little bug that follows you around) and my host mother taught me how to crochet! I have to be up super early tomorrow to head south for La Isla Negra, so hasta luego!
Viva La Chile!

Julia Marie